In The Shadow of Denali-final review

I finished the book, and my final take is if you're into mountain, outdoor skills, Alaska, or survival stories, its a good read.

At times the author seems to whine a little, especially in chapters 7 and 8, telling how his climbing buddies left him behind, his broken bones and exclusions.

In the last chapter we get a taste of rescue operations from the rangers point of view. Jon Waterman, having served in this role for many years, tells of climbers going up unprepared and when things go a bit wrong, or they break a minor bone call in for rescue.

Now, I'm not sure if the taxpayer still foots the bill for these harrowing acts of courage, but Jon quotes some figures that are astounding when he worked in the late 70's.

He also is obviously critical of the apathetic attitudes, lack of gratitude and self sufficiency.

I have to agree with the author on our need for self sufficiency.

If you're going into the wild, on an adventure, or even just driving down the road, bring some stuff and learn some skills. Plan on surviving every ordeal on your own.

In the Shadow has its heroes and villains. Has its survivors and wimps.

Paying for the Summit-Chapter Four

Jonathan Waterman talks about the whole guide-client relationship in this chapter. Burnt out and especially fed up with certain recent events, the last sentence in this chapter is "I never guided the mountain again".

I've talked to several retired professionals who made their passion their profession. After several years, they found their clients became the assassins and pallbearers of this passion.

Doesn't happen to everyone, that's true. Not sure how a person could predict the approaching calamity. Losing one's passion is a great tragedy. Finding a new one is nearly impossible.

In this chapter we are treated to the hilarious recounting of the Phil Story: a preacher from the state of Georgia felt the Lord had told him to climb Denali. Had our guide not rescued him time and again, this preacher would not have summitted nor survived to brag on his achievement. Of course, the Lord has been profusely thanked for his good fortune. The guide has not been.

While reading this chapter, I think of the disparity between an "insiders" viewpoint and an "outsiders". An insiders job is to make everything look like its going smoothly, pick up the slack, and give good value for the price paid. An outsider is often unaware of the grief he causes by rude or selfish behavior.

When all is said and done, the price to either party has been considered, and paid.

Sometimes on the mountain, the price was their life.

Lone Wolf, the John Waterman Story

Chapter Three of In the Shadow of Denali tells all about "the other John Waterman". The author of this book is Jon Waterman, and the remarkable crossings of paths without actually meeting each other is surprising. The father of John taught ice climbing skills to the author, they both loved and climbed in Alaska, moved in the same circles.

John disappeared after heading up the east face of Denali, climbing alone, in 1981. He is presumed dead, only the trail gods know for sure.

I took a lot of notes reading this chapter, most of them dealing with our inner demons that drive us nearly to madness, and beyond. Hard to remember the race is only with our self, and cut our greatest enemy some slack. Even after death defying feats, the Lone Wolf feels a disappointment and continues in his self distructive mode. Why is it never enough?

Jon writes , " If going mad didn't kill you, and you survived collapsing cornices and tent-ripping storms, you would forever walk twisted among your peers, changed irreparably by a stark and surreal world beyond most people's earthly experience."

Sounds like what long distance, and thru hikers especially call Re Entry.

I live not in myself, but I become Protion of that around me;and to me High mountains are afeeling, but the hum of human cities torture. -Lord Byron

John, the Lone Wolf received his trail name because of his propensity for long spells alone, among them 145 days soloing on and summitting Mount Hunter in 1978. His chosen route had never been climbed. In spite of his vast experience and daring, he'd end up washing dishes in Fairbanks instead of capitalizing on his feats and writing books and lecturing.

He lost many friends due to mountaineering accidents, never had a long term girl friend, and was given to volatility.

People who are afflicted with this kind of obsession for their chosen extreme sport understand the spirits that haunt until we go out to meet them again.

I recommend this book, this chapter being one of memorial, respect and warning.

The mountain climbers who reach a fine old age have been able to say "its enough."

In The Shadow of Denali

I started reading this book yesterday and its incredible.

Written by Jonathan Waterman and published in 1994, there are lessons to take away with each chapter.

While I don't expect to summit Mt. McKinley, or Denali as the locals refer to the 20,320 foot beauty, there is much to take away from the true stories of life and death here.

The author has much experience mountain climbing. As he tells his personal experiences and relates other gripping stories of mountain climbing Denali, we're left with deep respect for those who pursue this passion.

He's the first outdoors person I've seen admit in writing that dehydrated food can cause ( and usually do at this altitude) flatulence of epic proportions.

He tells of following Camp keeper Sue's advice to sprinkle cayenne pepper on your feet to keep them warm. At first he and his partner felt no effects. But, on the way down from the summit, the spice's heat built until he could hardly stand it. Once in camp, he removed his footwear and plunged his feet into the snow.

I'm wondering about a little cayenne pepper in some olive oil or petroleum jelly, would that work better? We'll report on that topical ointment if we try it.

Reading about the fatal mistakes of a crew of 12 was sobering. Seven died in that trip, inexperience and a horrific storm both being a factor. I do not pretend to understand all that mountain climbing entails, so I leave it up to you the reader to draw your own conclusions. Howard Snyder wrote The Hall of the Mountain King as a cautionary work telling his side of the story. Joe Wilcox wrote his book, White Winds telling his version. I think Jonathan Waterman wrote both sides well in the second chapter of this book.

My take away from this chapter is to be careful who leads you, and be careful who you lead. On any expedition, under or overestimating abilities can be fatal.

Researching gear lists and typical weather conditions, and having real time trail experience are two other lessons from these first chapters.

Not building snowcaves and lacking serious snow shovels both factored into fatal outcomes.

The author recalls his first trip while an Explorer Scout. Enormous amounts of food and gear caused them to actually gain 10 pounds each in efforts to decrease the loads. He remarks that having 8 members of this first team was detrimental to the fun as well.

An interesting quote" We spend our lives trying to evade death and its myriad of black mysterious faces, but unless we kick and shout back and fulfill ourselves wholeheartedly during our precious short time, death will stalk us until our days turn to mere condemnation."

Stay tuned for more in this blog while I devour this book.